Diner Tec: Mamma Mia! Tony Macaroni was a hit with Blondie

In no time she was fidgeting and bored of the stake-out, and frankly, so was I.

Didn’t look like I was going to be cracking any big case wide open tonight unless it was a case of hooch.

“Now we’re this far out of town,” wheedled Toots, “How about taking me for a steak baguette at that Byre place we used to like? I’m starving.”

She was right, we needed to get our nosebags on, and we had happy memories of pub grub at the Byre, just opposite the hospital in East Kilbride.

I turned the Buick in the right direction and in no time we were pulling up – but the joint was looking a little different this time. Same big barn-like building, but now it proclaimed itself to be transformed into Tony Macaroni.

“Fantastico, Tec,” squealed the Moll. “I could go an Italian!”

Quelle surprise, as they don’t say in Italy.

If memory served, they hadn’t changed the layout too much from the Byre days, but it had gone upmarket décor wise, with gleaming gold tabletops and black white and red upholstery – very theatrical and fancy. I kinda liked it. And there was a buzz of happy looking diners. So far so good.

We were whisked to a table and our waitress took drinks orders, a bottle of red and two glasses (the Moll’s glass was going to get topped up a lot more than mine, with the Buick outside). Pressed to add a side of garlic bread as we looked at the menu, we happily agreed.

I went for the antipasti platter to start. It’s for sharing but I’ve eaten with Blondie a time or two before and I reckoned her choice of mussels in white wine wasn’t going to stave off the hunger pangs.

For mains I ordered the cannelloni, aubergine rolls filled with ricotta, mozzarella, pesto, short spaghetti and basil baked with tomato sauce and parmesan, and the Moll went for the mushroom risotto.

The starts arrived pronto, as did our drinks. But what happened to the garlic bread our waitress had so cheerfully suggested? But now, we’d had half a dozen different wait staff – all charming, it must be said – so we weren’t too sure where the message went astray.

No sweat, it turned up eventually and in the meantime, we were wolfing down some of the freshest, tastiest mussels we’d had in a long time, in subtle broth. The antipasti was excellent too, creamy fresh mozzarella, olives, cured meats, tomato salad and bread.

“This place is classy, Tec,” observed the Moll sagely as she poured herself another large one. How come it’s never her turn to drive?

Mains arrived and at first I thought I’d picked a dud. My cannelloni looked delicious, but the dish looked really small compared to the Moll’s big platter of risotto.

How wrong can you get? My choice was densely-packed with textures and flavours and so rich and filling I struggled to finish it. Excellent.

But there was a frost developing across the table as the Moll picked at her risotto.

I risked a taste and I could see why Blondie had turned ice maiden on me. It tasted of very little except a hint of school dinner rice pudding with the odd underpowered sliver of mushroom to break the tedium.

“Never mind, Toots,” I said brightly, proffering the dessert menu as a peace offering. She sighed, and opted for the chocolate brownie, and I decided to keep her company with a scoop of ice-cream and an espresso.

No mess-ups here, the coffee was as intense and velvety as any on the streets of Rome and the Moll’s brownie was a sticky dense treat, complete with berries and cream. I’d saved the day.

For somewhere that had just opened, Tony Macaroni’s was getting a heck of a lot right – a few little tweaks could make it a standout.

Tony Macaroni at The Byre, 2 St James Court, East Kilbride G75 8RH Tel: 01355 220058

Starters

Mussels in white wine: £7.25

Antipasti £ £8.50

Mains

Risotto Funghi £9.25

Cannelloni di Melanzane 8.95

Sides

Garlic bread X2 £7.90

Dessert

Gelato 1.95

Choc Brownie 5.25

Drinks

1 X Bottle Cabernet Sauvignon £14.95

Espresso £1.60

Total: £65.60

Atmosphere: 4 stars

Food: 3 stars

Service: 3 stars