Review: Morblas Seafood and Grill at Hilton Glasgow

Tucked away in the glamorous confines of the Glasgow Hilton Hotel lies the Morblas Seafood and Grill – a trendy eating spot which celebrates Scotland's national larder with local, seasonal produce and traditional dishes with a subtle culinary twist. 

 The restaurant has an air of refined luxury; the interior is a warm blend of pine wood, earth tones and mirrors all bathed in golden, moody lighting, with well-spaced tables and faded lounge music lending a relaxed, intimate feel to the experience. We were welcomed by a very charismatic host at the entrance who showed us to our table. The service was faultless; the waiters were very professional, foreseeing all of our needs without being over-attentive.

The Morblas may be better known for its homegrown steaks and locally sourced fish, but it still pulled out all the stops on the vegetarian front on the starter menu. The duck egg was poached to perfection, sitting on a bed of caramelised onions, seasoned shallots, wild mushrooms and tarragon, a herb with hints of vanilla and aniseed which linger on the tongue. 

If you want to start off light with a seafood plate, the lobster and crayfish cocktail is a timeless classic, if a little on the safe side; the fish was succulent and well-cooked, though the quality was slightly overpowered by the cognac sauce.

The steak definitely won out in the main course; Scotch fillet served with creamy Béarnais sauce with a distinctive white wine vinegar tang, twice-cooked chips and a colourful, artfully arranged salad. The meat was medium rare; tender, juicy and pink on the inside, gamey in texture but yielding easily with each cut. 

As the only vegetarian main dish, the baked artichoke and wild mushroom flan is perhaps not the most inspiring pick of the menu for many diners; but they did this humble quiche justice with a rustic basil and pine nut sauce, seasonal vegetables, light fluffy egg and a melt-in-the-mouth base – a stodgy favourite for the cold autumn evenings creeping in.

For dessert, the white chocolate and passionfruit delice looked like a standout choice, and we weren't disappointed – It was a visual masterpiece which looked almost too good to eat. The orange square was cut with pink ‘broken glass’ sugar shards, stacked with two raspberry macaroons and topped with dried raspberry confetti. The lush mousse had a mouthwateringly fresh, citrusy kick layered over a crunchy biscuit tuile with subtle chocolate notes. The macaroons were soft with just a hint of crumble, their rich, fruity flavour packing maximum punch when dipped in the raspberry coulis. The dessert was unrelentingly sweet, but worth every indulgent bite.

If the delice sounds too intense, the cheeseboard is the ideal savoury send-off for diners. It’s laden with a generous assortment of Scottish, English and French cheeses in different flavours, from pungent Lanark Blue and Barwheys Smoked cheddar to the soft, fruity Brie de Maux – accompanied with black grapes, walnut halves, dried apricots, oatcakes and crackers. There is enough on the platter to share between two – perfect for dining couples to pick at while you finish the last drops of red wine.

The restaurant is a little off the beaten path for most Glaswegian foodies due to the Hilton's location on the fringe of the city centre – and it was rather quiet for a Saturday night – but if you're wanting fine dining in a charming, low-key setting, Morblas Seafood and Grill might be up your street.