The sun was shining and Glasgow was doing that cafe-culture thing it always does in a heatwave.

Everyone was wearing sunglasses and looking like they were in Barcelona or Milan.

The heat must have been getting to the Moll, because she came over all continental and wanted to get the vibe.

"There's that new Italian place, Tec," she wheedled, "you know, on Sauchiehall Street, let's give it a try."

In principal, I agreed - after all, we needed to eat something, and after a successful stake-out lately, we were in funds. Plus in this heat, Blondie was unlikely to volunteer to rattle any pots and pans.

But I confess, I sneakily wondered how much Glasgow really needs another Italian restaurant. Still, the dame had staked her claim, so off we headed.

First impressions were pretty good. The old Dino's site was completely transformed, sleek, modern and just a fraction quirky, with a good buzz from the many diners. We were shown to a quieter table, which suited me, and sat down. Maybe I'm slumping in my old age, but I found I was a little low in the saddle on the banquette, my chin barely cleared the table. Toots was looking much perkier in her chair opposite. I sat up ramrod straight - it's probably my posture.

The menu was interesting - all the Italian stuff you'd expect, but some off-road stuff as well.

I ordered a tomato salad to start and the Moll went for the chicken wings - we were on foot, so we treated ourselves to a bottle of white wine, too.

The salad was a treat - I have a bugbear about chilly supermarket tomatoes that don't taste of anything and these were the perfect antidote. Not only tiny, tasty and lightly dressed, but they were served at room temperature too, so all the flavour came through. The Moll's wings were plump and juicy and the coating was just spicy and herby enough without being too overpowering.

For mains, I'd gone for the giant pasta shells with creamy chicken - like I say, Italian, but with a twist. Blondie was excited to join in with the spiralizing craze and ordered the mixed vegetable 'pasta' in a tomato and prawn dressing. Mine was a rib-sticking feast, the big shells were a perfect vehicle for the silky cheese sauce. The Moll's veggie pasta looked wonderful, very colourful and the prawns looked zingy fresh. I'm not convinced myself, spiralizing-wise, but Toots raved about it and ate every scrap. "I can tell I've done myself good with that, Tec," she pronounced, beaming.

Not wanting to undo all her healthy work, she insisted it was a shared dessert, and Bella Italia have a three shots deal that means you can have a little try of a selection - great idea. We went for the cherry panna cotta, salted caramel chocolate and limoncello tart options. Dinky portions but all outstandingly yummy, rounded off with a decent coffee for me and Earl Grey tea for the Moll.

So, does Glasgow need another Italian restaurant? Well, there's certainly room for this one.

Bella Italia, Sauchiehall Street, G2 3AT, Tel: 0141 319 8793

Food *** Service *** Atmosphere ****

Starters

Chicken wings 6.45

Insalata Rosso 3.95

Mains

Pollo Formagi 10.75

Gamberoni Pasta 11.95

Dessert

Three shots dessert 5.25

Drinks

1 bottle Sauvignon Blanc 17.95

1 Diet Coke 2.60

Earl Grey Tea 2.25

Cafe latte 2.65

Total £63.80