FRIDAY night in Glasgow and things are looking up.

I like to cover my cases thoroughly. Trace everything right back to the source.

That’s one reason I’m treating the Moll to a place that can trace. They need to know the farmer, the field, the cow before their steaks hit the plate.

I sheltered in a dark close by the corner of Buchanan Street and St Vincent Street for the lovely lady to appear.

Some moments later, as if by magic, she gracefully stepped out of the taxi and caught my eye. We both smiled.

“Here you! Are you no a bit old for hinging aboot a close?” quizzed my dining partner as she pitter-pattered towards me in devastatingly high heels and low hem.

“I, ehm…” “No matter. I’m here now. I can hardly wait to go in there,” said the tall, droll, Moll indicating Miller and Carter at 47 St Vincent Street.

“Will it get your stamp of approval, Tec?” she giggled in the first of what was to be many of her allusions to the fact this used to be the old post office.

“It was also a bank, my dear,” I proffered. “Cheque you,” she said.

I could swear I got a whiff of eau de Babycham as she huddled into me as we entered this handsome establishment.

We were whizzed to our perfectly-placed table by age-old columns of marble emerging from glorious wood panelling and lit by extraordinary chandeliers.

My dinner pal suggested we get a shared starter: Baked Somerset Camembert, served with three types of bread with balsamic and plum chutney.

It is not her usual style, but she knows I have a passion for melting, warm cheese and winked.

When it landed at our table, it was absolutely inviting, begging us to tuck in, which we did with aplomb.

I got all Continental as I ripped and dipped the rind into the soft-flowing Camembert as if I were again in the South of France.

The doll stuck with the bread dip and was enchanted.

The chutney perked and prodded our taste buds in a flash of excitement. This was our little bit of Heaven, just off George Square. What’s not to like?

I ordered and enjoyed a splendid Shropshire chicken with purple carrots, mushrooms and black garlic.

But this place was about to go through the roof and reach for the stars.

My little chickadee had plumped herself up to go for a steak. When she ordered it “well done”, our charming hostess didn’t flinch.

“That’s a good sign, Tec,” she whispered to me over a glass of the quintessential Chardonnay of Australia, known and loved for its flavours of tropical fruits and melon and so totally crisp.

“Sure is my dear. I remember the waitress who once said to you ‘Chef doesn’t like his steak well-done’. You pure slapped her down!”

“Aye! Ah pure telt her Chef wisnae buying it or eating it, so get to it!”

And so, the well-done by Miller and Carter appeared along with sides and an onion loaf, plus the Doll’s cleverly-chosen cracked peppercorn sauce and a wedge of salad with garlic mayo and Parmesan.

Her knife sliced through the 30-day aged 8oz fillet with ease. Her eyes bulged. Mine too.

She carved a piece and tasted.

Those bulging eyes throbbed with excitement.

“That, Tec, is the best-ever steak I have ever had!”

The nearby orchestra played Ode to Joy and there were cheers in the air as the customers and staff let themselves go in the glorious moment and flung their arms in the air, at times hugging each other and the pillars of marble …

“Tec! Snap out of it! Listen to me!

“That is the best-ever steak I have ever had!”

I realised there was indeed no orchestra, but her words were the warmest music I had felt in my heart.

She was happy. More than that. She was loving Miller and Carter.

Me too.

Miller & Carter Glasgow

47 St Vincent Street

Glasgow G2 5QX

0141 404 2914

Baked Somerset Camembert £9.95

8oz Fillet Steak with sides and onion loaf £23.50

Bourbon-roasted Shropshire chicken £13.50

Drinks:

Chardonnay One Chain, Australia £19.95

Total:

£66.90

A Lunch Special is also available at £10.95 for two courses

Atmosphere – 4 stars

Food – 4 stars

Service – 4 stars