THE MARKET KITCHEN, 69 West Nile Street, Glasgow Tel:

0141 332 9755

THE city centre was starting to come alive as I edged the Buick along Downtown West Nile Street that Saturday night.

I'd arranged to meet Blondie in a new joint that's creating a real buzz.

The Moll was looking a million bucks, more dazzling than the Christmas lights in George Square.

"I'm starved," she purred as I led her into one of Glasgow's newest restaurants.

It had only been open a week but Market Kitchen was already filling tables up fast. I'd sniffed out a lead that the chef, Ian Hoey, used to share a kitchen with celebrity cook Nick Nairn, so hopes were high that the food would live up to the hype.

Eyeballing the joint, the decor was cosy and inviting, with candle-lit booths and a mezzanine level that's perfect for people watching.

A friendly gal led us upstairs to our table and apologised for some noisy broads who are toasting a bride-to-be and having a blast.

We barely noticed once the wine was served - sublime Sauvignon Blanc that had no business being a house wine.

Minutes later our starters arrived.

Toots opted for a butternut squash soup, that she said was just the right side of hot and tasty.

I'd taken a gamble with the gin and fresh herb salmon that was served with candied walnuts and Lanark blue cheese.

It was a winner, fresh and flavoursome and the candied nuts were outta sight good.

While we were finishing up our first courses, the chef came out and handed us another starter to try, the beetroot salad with toffee apple sauce.

It was a surprising hit, so good I was worried Blondie was going to follow him back into the kitchen.

While she powdered her nose in the little girls room, I checked out the rest of the menu.

The side dishes grabbed my attention, with choices including Mac & cheese, mashed potato, warmed house loaf and roast bone marrow, and reasonably priced.

Natural and fresh is the restaurant's motto, a bit like the Moll without her war paint and peroxide.

Everything is locally sourced, with cheeses taken from West End cheesemonger George Mewes and a signature 35-day aged meats from the Tweed Valley and Ayrshire.

Our mains arrived at the double.

IHAD gone for the Roast Butternut Squash Risotto, with chilli, vanilla and watercress salad.

Ambitious flavours but it was the bees knees.

Risotto served in Italian joints can be too heavy on the olio d'olivia but this hit the spot, light and packed full of flavour.

The Moll plumped for the pan seared monkfish that came served with ratte potatoes, wasabi, roasted beets and lemon caper dressing.

It was a little cold for her tastes but the fish was melt in the mouth fresh and she polished off every morsel.

"Now for something sweet," drawled Toots as she eyed the dessert menu.

I was busting out of my suit but the options were so fine, we agreed to share the white chocolate, raspberry bread and butter pudding, served with creme anglaise.

It was the bomb - the perfect winter desert, bursting with fresh fruity flavours and the creme anglaise got the thumbs up from Toots.

After some sweet nothings over the perfect espresso, it was time to split.

STARTERS

Soup du jour £4.50

Gin and fresh herb salmon £7.95

MAINS

Roast butternut squash risotto, with chilli, vanilla, and watercress salad £11.95

Pan seared monkfish with ratte potato salad, wasabi, roasted beets, lemon caper dressing, £7.95

DESSERT

White chocolate, raspberry, bread and butter pudding £6.50

DRINKS

2 glasses Sauvingnon Blanc £10.70

Total £49.55