PEEPING through cracks in the huge gate, I wobble on tiptoes to snap a photo with my phone.

Success, a grainy shot of a recognisable front door.

I'm outside the former home of The Osbournes in Beverly Hills, the one made famous by their MTV reality show where tiny dogs ran riot and Sharon ruled the roost.

Unlike the celebrity residents of this neighbourhood who swan about in chauffeur-driven limos, I'm on two wheels pedalling past mini mansions on a Bikes and Hikes' Movie Star Homes tour (www.bikesandhikesla.com).

As we cycle between LA's most exclusive enclaves, I look up at the cloudless blue sky, punctuated with tall palm trees.

Our tour guides point out the A-list houses, including Elton John's $3million condo overlooking Soho House and Marilyn Monroe's old apartment at North Doheny Drive.

I get to know one of Hollywood's greatest icons a little better at TCL Chinese Theatre, where I step into Marilyn's shoes.

My size six sandals completely cover her tiny heeled footprints and my hands engulf her dainty palms on the 1953 Gentlemen Prefer Blondes imprint, where tourists get to hold hands with their idols via concrete.

During Oscar season, dermatologist to the stars, Dr Harold Lancer, is solidly booked with A-listers hoping to achieve a red carpet glow.

I follow in the footsteps of Simon Cowell, Scarlett Johansson and Victoria Beckham, by visiting his practice.

"Beauty hurts but ugly hurts a lot more," Dr Lancer tells me after I emerge glowing from his Stem Cell Facial. "Beauty isn't just about the face, it's from the dinner table up," he says. "Hands, arms, shoulders and decolletage."

During my visit, I discover going to the beauty salon is like picking up a sandwich.

In buzzy West Hollywood where I'm staying, there are dedicated 'blow-dry bars' - no scissors needed for smooth, bouncy tresses. Women (and men) sit with customary toy dog in lap, mobile phone in one hand, while their nails on the other are done.

Dogs aren't left out of the pampering. Everywhere you look, there are dog spas, pooch parlours and even check-ins at Chateau Marmutt where over-indulged pooches can slim down on doggy treadmills.

In Rodeo Drive, I spot crowds of tourists ogling a Bugatti Veyron sports car (from £1.2million).

Bespoke fashion is also big business on the pristine streets of Rodeo. Practically losing my feet in the plush carpet, I meet stylist to the stars Joe Katz in Dior's VIP suite, where designer archive pieces decorate the room and champagne is served on arrival.

He's summoned at least once a day by clients who require tailored styling sessions.

I start mentally calculating how many Jimmy Choos I would get with Joe's 'Dream Closet' options where price tags total $10,000, $50,000 or $100,000.

"We're selling fur and big coats in the height of summer," Joe says. "Our customers are inter-national so they are looking for outfits to take them across the Fashion Week capitals like Paris, London and New York.

"We did have a limited edition Lady Dior bag in a glass case. It sold at $16,000, which is pretty affordable in Beverly Hills," he says without blinking.

This is a place that twinkles by night and day, leaving you starry-eyed. Now I know why big sunglasses are a necessity.

Lisa Haynes flew direct with Air New Zealand (www.airnew zealand.co.uk). Daily return flights from Glasgow to Los Angeles via London start from as little as £618 with the Economy Saver. For more information on West Hollywood see www.visitwesthollywood.com