IT IS my first taste of an alternative getaway to Arizona, where I discover some of the US state's lesser known highlights, often overshadowed by the mighty Grand Canyon.

A water massage is just one of many wellbeing treatments on offer at the Canyon Ranch Health and Spa Resort, where I'm staying for the next few days.

Here, guests are invited to leave the ordinary world behind and regenerate body and soul in the Sonoran desert. Therapists devise personalised programmes that include eating plans, exercise, outdoor pursuits and, of course, massage.

My days start early, and every morning I awake to a view of the Catalina Mountains, dotted with cacti and bathed in an amber glow.

With a full day of activities ahead, I sit down to breakfast with a choice of healthy dishes - this is not a place for extreme diets, starvation or rabbit food!

I even learn how to recreate healthy dishes at home. Chef Shawn gives us different recipes to prepare in groups and explains step-by-step what to do.

From 6am until 8pm, there are at least two activities taking place every hour at the Ranch, and there are also gorgeous spa facilities, a gym, swimming pools and tennis courts to enjoy.

The fresh air and beautiful weather brings out my adventurous side so I sign up to join a fire-making session.

I carve my own fire tools then use - with a bit of friction - them light kindle. In instructor Randy's words: "Lighters are sooo overrated".

After debating whether I should go on a photography hike, track animals in the desert or take a bike ride through the mountains, I join an off-site trip to the Rancho Bosque Equestrian Centre for an 'Equine Inspirations' class - a great exercise in self-awareness - then take a leap into the unknown with an aerial zip line activity.

RELAXING classes, such as sunrise yoga and meditation, watercolour classes and jewellery-making workshops, are also on offer.

Feeling rejuvenated, I leave the Ranch and travel northeast to Scottsdale, a city full of authentic cowboy charm. I check into Hotel Valley Ho, the epitome of modern chic with its stylish interior and within walking distance to all the shops, bars and restaurants.

Scottsdale is a paradise for foodies. It's hard to pick from all the great places to eat, so I join the Arizona Food Tour to sample the cuisine and wine in the area.

The nightlife here is also an experience not to miss. One evening, I hear live music coming from a quirky bar called Rusty Spur Saloon. I'm welcomed in by locals in cowboy hats and find myself do-si-doing into the night.

The next day, my alarm clock wakes me at 5am and I set off for the beautiful Sonoran Desert with Hot Air Expeditions to catch the sunrise, followed by a champagne breakfast.

There's just time for more pampering - the VH Spa at Hotel Valley Ho offers a relaxing myofascial treatment, using honey and ginger before I leave Arizona feeling healthier, and having seen this famous state and it's landscape in a new golden light.

Leanne Rinne was a guest at Canyon Ranch (www.canyon ranch.com/tucson). Healing Holidays (www.healingholidays.co.uk 020 7843 3597) offers four nights at Canyon Ranch Tucson from £3165 per person (based on two sharing), including flights, transfers, full board, $650 spa credit, activities, classes and talks.

n Doubles at Hotel Valley Ho in Scottsdale (www.hotelvalleyho.com) cost from £61-£247 per night.

n British Airways (www.ba.com) flies from London Heathrow to Phoenix Sky Harbor International from approx £600.

n Visit www.arizonaguide.com