Huffing and puffing, we stagger along the steep, narrow lane that leads to the top of a hill on Lipari, the largest Aeolian island off the northern coast of Sicily.

But the hard work is worth it, and we are rewarded with a view that has us clicking away furiously at camera shutters. The object of our affections, however, is not a natural vista or an ancient Greek ruin, it is the Royal Clipper - a majestic ship with her sails unfurled.

Since departing the Italian mainland a few days earlier, and sailing along the Amalfi Coast, our floating home has caused quite a stir. Although just 439ft, the small vessel has everything you could want from a cruise ship and more.

On the top deck are three small pools with plenty of space for sun loungers to lie back and relax on; underneath are a few decks with facilities, including a gym and salon. The ship is just big enough so you feel like you have enough space, but small enough to easily navigate your way around.

All formal meals are served in the beautiful three-tiered dining room, with its sweeping balconies and ornate balustrades. Breakfast and lunch consist of an extensive buffet that is served in the room each day, while every evening there is a five-course feast.

But the real bonus of travelling in a ship this small is the opportunity to call in at smaller ports, often close to the main attractions. Unlike larger cruise ships that dock in big industrial ports and need taxis and buses to reach anywhere of interest, the Clipper ships set down their anchor in less easily accessible places.

Once moored outside a harbour, their own tender boats can be lowered into the water to quickly transport passengers across to the jetties lining the ports, allowing them the luxury of being able to wander around in their own time.

That is exactly what I do in Lipari, where I spend a leisurely morning roaming the bustling town, stopping regularly to take pictures of the pretty cobbled streets and flower-lined terraces.

Of course, there are still group excursions which you can sign up for. When we dock in Sicily, I opt for one offering wine tasting, followed by a visit to the beautiful town of Taormina.

Nestled high in the cliffs above the port of Giardini Naxos, where the ship is moored, Taormina regularly features on lists of must-see places to go. I spend a memorable few hours meandering along its narrow cobbled streets, popping into high-end boutiques to eye up chic Italian handbags and shoes way out of my price range.

To end the day on a high, I take a cable car ride above the water and admire the views below. There again is the Royal Clipper, eliciting envy and attention from other tourists.

Another advantage of being on a smaller ship is the marine deck that can be lowered when at anchor, serving as a platform for activities such as windsurfing, kayaking and snorkelling. I

f you don't feel like being active, you can plunge into the water, prop yourself up on foam floats and lounge seal-like in the sun.

One of the biggest highlights of my trip is the opportunity to climb the ship's rigging up into the crow's nest. Those with a head for heights should not miss the chance to do this.

Clipped on to the rigging with a harness, I am reassured that even if I do slip, I won't be able to fall far. Once I have clambered to the top and on to a wooden platform I am rewarded with an incredible bird's-eye view of the boat. Surrounded by billowing sails, all I can hear is the wind, and it is easy to imagine I have travelled back to a time when ships such as the Royal Clipper ruled the waves.

n Jennifer Cockerell was a guest of Star Clippers (www.starclippers.co.uk; 0845 200 6145), which offers offers a seven-night trip to the Amalfi Coast and Sicily on the Royal Clipper from £1505pp, departing and returning to Rome on May 16, 23, 30 and June 6 next year.

n easyJet (www.easyjet.com) fly to Rome from Prestwick Airport from approximately £42 one way.