The streets were not only mean, they had turned cold and dark as well.

And always the perennial question as the clocks go back. A cosy night by my own fireside, or turn up the heat in the city?

No question at all, once the Moll stuck her oar in, as it turned out. She was ready for action and keen to show off a new winter coat.

So we headed for St Vincent Street, where we'd spied an intriguing new joint, the Chaakoo Bombay Cafe.

We were interested because it didn't look like your usual Indian (much as I like them).

Inside, there was no red plush or flock wallpaper. Instead the place was more like a bustling station buffet from the days of the Raj. If I hadn't known it was Glasgow outside, I'd have sworn we were all treating ourselves to a good feed before boarding the train from Bombay to Madras. We loved it.

We were shown to a cosy booth by a friendly and attentive waitress and took a look at the menu. Again, uncharted territory. This was a smaller choice than usual, but made up of tapas-sized dishes that put a new spin on Indian dining. It says on the blurb that the menu is inspired by Iranian food brought by migrants to India. Who knew? We decided it wasn't a starters then a main course deal, and instead picked lots of tasty dishes to share, plus a bottle of wine to get things started.

Before we knew it, an amazing selection started arriving at the table. There was a rich and spicy lamb and spinach dish, a cool and creamy slaw, some spicy fries. It was all going down a treat with me and the Memsab (maybe I'm being a tad post-Colonial politically incorrect, but that was sure the Jewel in the Crown vibe they were aiming at). Then came a brilliant dish of spiced, roasted cauliflower that was sheer heaven. If you have a school dinners-aversion to a cauli, this will surely convert you. There was a comforting lentil daal, some meaty kofta skewers and big lumps of chicken curry. And as a side, two of the lightest, fluffiest naan breads I can ever remember. If you like your naan large, oily and chewy (and I'm not knocking it) these were a different beast completely.

But we weren't being greedy. All the plates were starter-sized and me and Blondie were having a whale of a time sampling all the new flavours. "This is a hoot, Tec," said Toots, and she was right.

Lots of smaller dishes meant when the dessert menu came, we were up for it. The Moll picked gulab jamon, a kind of doughnut with syrup. Not really my scene, but she loved it, even the scary side of some kind of sauce that looked like mouthwash. I went for a heavenly couple of scoops of toasted coconut ice-cream, a great end to a spicy and original meal.

Reluctant to leave the bustling atmosphere and really excellent service, we treated ourselves to one of their cocktails, and two straws. Am I romantic, or a cheapskate? You decide. Anyway our Diplomat's Visit, a rum and cinnamon combo, was drier than it sounds and just the ticket.

It was just as cold when we got back outside, but Chaakoo's had warmed our hearts for the winter ahead.

Chaakoo Bombay Cafe, 79 St Vincent Street, Glasgow G2 5TF Tel 0141 229 0000

Food *** Atmosphere **** Service ****

Chaako Slaw £2

Tarka Daal £3.95

Kofta Curry £5.50

Chicken Lababdar £5.50

Roasted Cauliflower £3.95

Lamb Saagwalla £6.50

2x plain naan £3

Masala fries £3

Dessert

Gulab Jamon 4.95

Ice Cream x 2 scoops £3

Drinks

Bottle of Sauvignon Blans £17.95

Diplomat's Visit cocktail 6.50

Total £65. 80