GUY'S, Bruce Hotel, East Cornwall Street, East Kilbride Tel:

01355 229771

SOMETIMES you want edgy urban vibes, but sometimes even a lean, mean gumshoe like me wants to take it easy for a while.

The nights were turning cold and dark and I was dreaming of pipe-and-slippers comfort food. Trouble was, the Moll was in no mood to play Ma Walton. Looked like home cooking was off the menu.

"It'd be nice to get a little pampering myself, Tec," she wheedled. "Let's go somewhere with a good old-fashioned feel."

You know those places you've been driving past for years and never thought to go in?

Suddenly it all made sense and we were parking the Buick by the Bruce Hotel in East Kilbride, where - who knew?- they do an all-day Sunday carvery in their restaurant, Guy's.

Well, I don't know who this Guy dude is, but I had high, hungry, hopes and big hotel lobbies always cheer Toots up, for some reason.

I think she sees herself in movie star mode as she sweeps across to ding the bell at reception.

There's a hint of time travel as you enter the hotel. Lots of thick carpet, lavish upholstery, tinkly piano music and 70s chandeliers, plus the distant murmuring of happy diners and no sense that the world outside exists any more.

We made our way to Guy's, which was done out the same way, but there was no-one to greet us for an awkward moment. Luckily, a friendly manageress appeared in the nick of time and ushered us to a nice table in a dining room that gave everyone lots of elbow room - I like that in a restaurant.

"Mmm, this is nice, Tec," murmured Blondie, as a young waiter appeared. At his suggestion we shared a half-litre carafe of the house white wine.

He explained that we should serve ourselves from the starter buffet while he got our drinks, and then we were to let him know when we were ready for our main course.

We went to take a look. There was a tureen of winter vegetable soup with mixed bread rolls and butter, a chicken and bacon pate, a platter of prawns and smoked salmon and both fruit and vegetable salads. As it was a buffet, we didn't miss much out.

And as promised, on our return, our drinks were waiting.

The pate was delicious, coarse-textured and nicely seasoned, and came with a nicely sweet and sour onion chutney.

The seafood was light and refreshing, and a great foil for the two types of salad. The soup was really excellent, savoury and just the comforting hit I was after, though for perfection I would ask for the kitchen to go a little easier on the salt.

No-one was rushing us and I was really enjoying the feel of the place.

Sure enough, our waiter appeared once we'd finished our starters and whisked it all away so we could go and have a look at the carvery.

Just so you know, they do offer an option for vegetarians, but this is probably not their dream destination.

Anyway. The choice was beef, turkey or ham.I just had the beef and the Moll went for a mix of beef and turkey. To accompany were roast potatoes, Yorkshire puddings, gravy and a roast winter vegetable mix.

All delicious, but a carvery stands or falls by the quality of the meat, and this was really excellent, tender and succulent. A green vegetable would have given a welcome lighter note, though.

We started to ponder the dessert menu, which was also on a buffet. The Moll plumped for the lemon tart and I rolled the dice for what I think was a chocolate and pear cheesecake, though nothing was signposted.

My cheesecake was luscious, but the tart was living up to its name a little too literally for the Moll, who made the sour face that is her trademark.

She ordered a coffee to finish and got the full hotel experience, with dinky milk jugs and sugar lumps, which put the smile back on her face.

Guy's isn't cutting edge cuisine and doesn't claim to be, but we felt well-fed and well-looked after for a very modest bill and a warm welcome, and at this time of year, that's as good as any hot water bottle.

FOOD

Carvery, three courses, £9.95 each

DRINKS

1 half-litre carafe white wine £5.25

1 coffee £1.60

TOTAL: £26.75