IT'S the question every England fan is asking.

No, not why is Rio Ferdinand just behind Jack Charlton in the list of central defenders Roy Hodgson was prepared to take to Euro 2012?

Rather, why, when all their group games are taking place in Ukraine, are England based 1000 miles away in Poland?

Well, having been fortunate enough to stay not only in Krakow but in the very hotel in which John Terry and co are billeted, and also having had the mis-fortune to visit Donetsk – where England play two of their group games – believe me, in this regard at least, England have made an inspired decision.

The Stary Hotel – a renovated merchant's house featuring antique furniture in very spacious rooms and boasting every conceivable aid to a relaxing time – stands in the very centre of crackling Krakow.

Despite its location, behind its huge wooden doors it's an oasis from the hustle and bustle, quiet enough for the cardinals to be the first to stay there when the Pope visited the city just before a Celtic friendly against Wisla in July 2006.

Compare and contrast with Donetsk, where the magnificent, futuristic Donbass Arena and Donbass Palace Hotel – reserved exclusively for Uefa officials – stand like a pair of lighthouses in a desert of despair.

In four decades of following football, Donetsk is undoubtedly the bleakest place I have ever visited.

As the England squad would have discovered as they flew into the city yesterday, you can smell the place before you see it.

The flight taking Celtic to face Shakhtar in the Champions League eight years ago had only just begun its descent when it hit you.

Wafting through the ventilation nozzles was the unpleasant, sulphur-laced odour which was to remain with us throughout our stay.

Below, the landscape of this heavily mined area of Ukraine was pockmarked with yellow pools, the residue of the excava-tions which brought so much wealth to at least a few. They also gave it its whiff.

This at least prepared you for what awaited in the city, a drab, uninviting place where the main pastime of the locals appeared to be wandering the dimly lit streets swigging from bottles of lager and avoiding the Lada taxis with the ubiquitous bullet holes in the windscreen.

Most of the gaunt young men were wearing what looked to be oversized jumpers they had knitted them-selves, in contrast to the stunning women who would not have looked out of place on any catwalk in Milan or Paris.

England may not get much right when their game begins tonight against France, who have elected to base themselves in Donetsk.

But, choosing to enjoy Stary nights in Krakow rather than depressing days in Donetsk was inspired.