From a booth in Rogano, Anne Patterson looks around her to comment on what has changed in the more than 25 years she has been linked with the landmark Glasgow restaurant.

“Absolutely nothing,” she marvels. “There have been hardly any changes. I’ve been away to work in different places and came back and even in the office it was still all the same files with my writing on them. Out here the cutlery trays are in the same place, everything is the same.”

From 1935 owner Don Grant to a joint venture between brewery group Alloa and Ken McCulloch to Gordon Yuill and now James Mortimer, it speaks volumes for the affection they have all held for the restaurant.

Rogano at 80: the 13 best celebrity stories 

It is no easy task to keep the well-known eaterie with a star-studded clientele looking much the same as it did 80 years ago.

Take the fabric of the seats in the booth. They were always recovered in the same material made in Italy and shipped over to Glasgow for the same family upholstery firm to fit.

When fabric production stopped, general manager Anne contacted Glasgow School of Art and asked the textiles department for help.

“They came down, took photos of the fabric and reproduced it for us. It was done again this year and just fitted about three weeks ago,” says Anne.

“It’s the same with the carpet, it is copied from the original carpet in first class on the Queen Mary. The fact that it is speckled dates back from when people smoked indoors and flicked their ash on the carpet.

“You can tell if it’s original if it has that mottled pattern. We have it rewoven exactly the same every few years to keep it the same.”

The walls, canopies and pillars are all original, quite a feat in a restaurant that celebrates 80 years of service on November 15.

Famously fitted out in Art Deco splendour the 1930s, at the same time the Cunard liner RMS Queen Mary was being built at John Brown’s shipyard on the Clydeside, the beautifully finished bird’s eye maple around the booths and walls look as luxurious as they did all those years ago, as does the mural wood panelling and mirrors behind the bar.

“The story goes that the mirrors were stolen from the Queen Mary by workers to pay their bar bill,” laughs Anne.

“There was a film made in 1949 called Flood Tide, starring Gordon Jackson and filmed partly in here, and in it you can see the mural, pillars and canopies and people standing drinking cocktails. It’s wonderful.”

Along with the oysters and champagne served to customers in Exchange Place, the other legendary connection is the glittering list of customers, from Frank Sinatra and Elizabeth Taylor to Rod Stewart.

Jude Law recently popped in for dinner, and the staff have also served Tom Jones, Kylie Minogue and Keira Knightley.

“Keira came in every night for two weeks when she was filming,” says Anne.

“And I remember Kylie had a big bowl of mussels and the waiter was so nervous he could only carry one starter at a time to the table because he was shaking so much.”

The place to eat at is table 16, the most sought-after seat in the house, and current owner James Mortimer has been known to be asked to move from it to another table if a regular customer comes in.

At the head of the restaurant, its curved ¬panelling means customers sitting at table 16 are screened from the cocktail bar behind.

It is the favourite spot of Rod Stewart, Kylie and Ms Taylor.

“Years ago a wee old man called Mr Glasgow, a regular who just passed away only last year and came in every day for soup and a smoked salmon sandwich, was walking past table 16,” says Anne.

“He said to the woman sitting there, ‘I know you, why do I know you?’ and it was Elizabeth Taylor. He bought her a glass of champagne.”

The menu is as comfortingly recognisable as the surroundings, a tradition continued by head chef Gordon Provan.

Langoustines, lobster, fish soup, scallops and oysters are always there, accompanied in the bar by dizzying sales of champagne and French martini cocktails.

“The amount of oysters we sell in here is just crazy,” says Anne. “And over the last few years French martinis have sold twice the amount of any other cocktail. I keep checking to see if Cosmopolitans or any others come close but they don’t. Champagne aside that is the biggest seller.”

To mark the 80th birthday of Rogano a private party for regulars is planned, preceded in the afternoon on November 15 by complimentary oysters and Guinness to passers-by outside. New cocktails have been dreamed up and one lucky person will find a cultured pearl in their glass which Laings will string into a bespoke piece of jewellery.

What do the next eight decades hold for Rogano? Raise a glass to making sure it stays exactly the same.