IT’S been a quick journey but I’m relieved as I arrive, bleary-eyed, at the luxury desert resort and spa, Al Maha, at 2am. It’s my second time in Dubai and I realise how much I’ve missed it as I’m met with a beaming smile and cool drink from the receptionist.
I’m driven in the dark to my “room” in a golf buggy. I enter. Suddenly, I’m not so tired any more. This “room” is bigger than my entire flat in Glasgow.
Lavishly decorated, thoughtful touches – binoculars, an easel with art materials, a writing desk, pastries, sweets and chocolates – are scattered around the room, creating the illusion of a huge Bedouin tent.
The humongous bed “sleeps two” – though I’d double that. Massive doors lead to something I’ll discover in the morning sun.
After a sleepless night, I discover a private deck outside, complete with sun loungers and my own infinity pool and dining area. It’s so secluded the desert is my back garden; something moves nearby – a gazelle grazing, just yards away.
After a massage in the spa – where I’m told I must learn to relax – the highlight that evening is a picnic in the dunes. Flame torches light up the sand to expose Persian carpets and starched white linen. A magical night under the starry sky, this is no ordinary picnic but, rather, a fine dining experience, with all the meat, rice and wine you could wish for.
In the morning, the drive to Palm Island seems endless as last night’s over-indulgence takes its toll. The island is a sight to behold, with the Atlantis resort reigning over all.
Walking into the Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, every wall has been carefully hand painted, giving the resort a Vegas feel: there’s no tranquillity here in this family-filled hotel. Unwinding in the superior king room, I take in the views of the Arabian Gulf from the private balcony. With a massive marble bath and a generous king-sized bed, I can’t wait to live like royalty – even if only for two days.
If Palm Island is a sight to behold from the ground, nothing prepares me for the sight of it from the air. Following a smooth water take-off, a 45-minute seaplane tour with Seawings gives jaw-dropping aerial views of the gorgeous buildings that stud Dubai’s skyline.
The sight of Dubai’s man-made archipelagos have me wide-eyed. Views of Dubai Marina and the busy ports of Jebel Ali and Port Rashid are particular favourites, as is the giant, 150m golden Dubai Frame monument which doubles as a museum.
The sea of lights at night that is Al Habtoor City – a vaulted complex with three hotels – is my next stop as I’ve come to see the much-raved-about La Perle. With a cast of 65 artists, this jaw-dropping show combines 2.7m litres of water with acting, acrobats, aquatic and gravity-defying aerial stunts. While visually captivating, the plot is somewhat muddled. Dinner calls.
Situated at the end of the pier at the esteemed Al Qasr hotel, “Dubai’s most romantic restaurant”, Pierchic, offers a stunning, over-the-water dining experience like nowhere else in the UAE. The Mediterranean seafood menu sets the standard with a culinary offering inspired by the world’s oceans.
Sadly, the food lacks flavour, but the unique cocktails, along with the staff, make up for it; one whisky-based drink emerges smoking from a small treasure chest.
It’s been a packed few days and I could do with some sleep before flying, but I abandon the idea. There’s something about this city that leaves you sleepless.
For more information on Dubai, go to visitdubai.com/en. Also visit al-maha.com and jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/dubai/jumeirah-zabeel-saray.
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