THE Moll was feverish with excitement.

I’d promised her a bite and a night at the A-listed Glasgow hotel that hosted legendary crooner Frank Sinatra and Winston Churchill no less.

Toots might be harder to please than the notoriously grumpy former prime minister, I mused as she looked out her best threads and applied more rouge than a troupe of circus clowns.

It was known as the Central Hotel back in those early days but added the Grand title after it re-opened in 2010 under new ownership.

We parked the Buick at home anticipating the drinks menu might merit an overnight stay and took a train downtown.

I’d already sniffed out a lead that the hotel’s Tempus restaurant is due for a major revamp next year.

The joint has added a new menu ahead of the changes, so I was keen to see if the food lived up to the ‘grand’ title.

According to the hotel owners, the menu is designed to show off Scotland’s larder, using locally sourced seasonal produce and ingredients so hopes were high it would deliver on flavour.

We were immediately ushered to our table by a friendly gent, who wasted no time in bringing the menus and a jug of H20.

“I could eat a horse,” wailed Toots as she chewed on her New York red talons. The waiter must have overheard because within seconds, a selection of tempting Italian bread had landed on our table, with twin dips of olive oil and balsamic.

We wasted no time in tucking in as we checked out the goods on the A la Carte menu. There was a choice of six starters and it was a tough call to choose but I settled on the pan-fried West Coast scallops with rice noodles and basil oil.

It was generously proportioned and the scallops were cooked to perfection, with the noodles providing an unsual but delicious accompaniment.

Blondie was silenced by the goat’s cheese salad, which came with apple, radish, grapes, walnut and chicory.

With the size of the portions, we were beginning to regret devouring the entire bread basket. Fears were growing we wouldn’t be able to take advantage of the tempting desserts on offer which included seasonal fruit crumble with Arran Dairies ice cream and custard. I promised Toots a return visit for pudding.

The service was swift and our mains arrived as we contemplated our error. I’d chosen the Peterhead-landed fish supper which was accompanied by french fries, crushed peas, tartare sauce and lemon. It didn’t disappoint.

The good lady tucked into the woodland mushroom pappardelle pasta with truffle cream essence and I couldn’t resist a bite. It was sensationally good, although she said a little less salt would elevate the dish to perfection.



Mixed breads, flavoured oils, balsamic - £4.50

Pan-fried West Coast scallops - £10

Golden Cross goat’s cheese salad - £6


Peterhead-landed fish and chips £16

Mushroom pasta £13


Two glasses of Malbec - £13

Total - £62.50


FOOD - ⭐⭐⭐⭐


SERVICE - ⭐⭐⭐⭐